Thursday, January 27, 2011

Oils, bitter herbs and other delights of Ayurvedic treatment

Guggulu Tiktakam Kashayam, Guggulu Tiktakam Ghritam, Dasamoola Hareetaki, Yogaraja Guggulu, Balarishtam....these are just a few of our prescribed Ayurvedic herbal preparations which we must consume 3-4 times per day, before meals, and beginning at 6 am in the morning. "Tik-tak-tam"....I like the sound of these Kerala Ayurvedic medicines! On the other hand, the taste ranges from extremely bitter to barely palatable.

But Assunta and I are savoring our daily treatments (we are now into day 4) at the Kerala Ayurveda Samajam Shoranur : http://www.samajam.org/  It may or may not be the world's first Ayurveda Center (not sure about that claim), but it is definitely rooted in a deep tradition, and has much to offer--tho it definitely does not cater to foreigners in any way; methods are very basic and traditional, without any effort to appeal to aesthetics. This is a hospital, and treatments are matter-of-fact.

That said, I look forward to my daily slathering, melting, molding, drenching oil bath and massage, with two young women on either side of me, in rhythmic unison, sliding their palms up and down my legs, arms and torso, massaging at times more deeply, at other times gently. In-between the actual massaging, the just-perfectly heated dark brown oil is poured repeatedly over every part of my body (head excepted, in this case), enveloping me like a baby in a womb-like liquid universe.

I am lying on a heavy ancient-looking wooden bench-cum-boat-like 'table'. The oil drips down off my body and is caught by the raised sides of the table, where it is gathered and regathered by another woman at the foot of the table, to be re-heated, and reapplied, repeatedly, for one hour. This is abhyanga. I will have seven days of this, followed by further treatments, to be determined.

Assunta is having similar but different treatments, some of which involve the application of a special paste to the body, and oil massage of the head. Our treatments were determined by the head doctor of Samajam, who met with us for a preliminary consultation, talked with us individually, quite at length, and took our pulse.

During the treatments we are meant to rest alot and not run around. Our food should be without oil or spices, quite simple. Luckily our cook Lakshmi is familiar with these treatments, and is a master at making us wonderful and simple Kerala food (like steamed plantains for breakfast, aviyal --a yogurt-based vegetable dish with rice- for lunch, and steamed rice cakes, or idli, for supper.)

The  heavy oil massages make one feel very relaxed and sleepy, so its pretty easy to just decide not to do too much. (my one indulgence is staying in town after massage to post on the blog--the other indulgence was taking a bus to Trissur the other night to see a fantastic Kathakali performance! ** see photos in another post)

We are grateful to be here, and to be experiencing these treatments....

more follows....

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